With a dog that immediately jumps into the leash and barks furiously when a fellow dog approaches, a relaxed walk is hardly possible. Read here how leash aggression in dogs develops and how the dog and you yourself learn to master encounters with other dogs on the leash in a relaxed manner.

Leash aggression in dogs can take on different forms and degrees of severity. For the owner of a leash-aggressive dog, the walk quickly becomes an absolute stress situation when another dog appears in the distance. This is because in particularly severe cases of leash aggression....

... the dog freaks out completely at the sight of another dog
... jumps with all his strength into the leash
... is difficult to hold
... growls and barks.
Quickly you can also get into situations here, where it makes sense to be familiar with the current legislation around the dog.

Some dogs also react leash-aggressively only with certain dogs (striking color, size, certain sex), with others they are completely relaxed. Even dogs that are friendly to other dogs when running free and play amicably with them can be like a changed person when on a leash.

In the long run, leash aggression can become a very stressful problem for both dog and owner. To stop the dog's leash aggression, the cause of his behavior should first be clarified.

Causes of leash aggression in dogs

That the dog develops leash aggression can have very different causes. It is not always possible to find out which experience was so traumatic for the dog that he started to massively defend himself against other dogs on the leash. These causes are often behind aggression towards other dogs:

Bad experience on the leash: The dog was bitten, got hurt, is very frightened and has linked this traumatic experience with the encounter of another dog.
Lack of experience: the dog has had little contact with other dogs, he is insecure and feels restricted by the leash and threatened by the other dog.
Frustration: The dog desperately wants to go to the other dog, sniff it and play with it. Because he is not allowed to go, he reacts more and more aggressively (often the trigger for leash aggression in young, very playful dogs).
Mood transfer: The handler is tense, fears even the encounter with another dog, because he already knows what is coming. The tension is transferred to the dog.
Breed-typical predispositions: Dogs that are particularly bred to guard and protect are very territorial and can develop leash aggression more easily.
However, leash aggression is absolutely not an indication that the dog is vicious.

Seven tips against leash aggression in dogs.

Once the dog has developed leash aggression, it takes a lot of patience and consistent training to stop it. These 7 tips can help you do that:

1. clarify the cause of leash aggression.
When it comes to leash aggression, researching the cause is important. Answer the following questions and record the answers on a piece of paper:

Has the dog ever been attacked, hurt, bullied?
Does he show this behavior from the beginning?
Is it only certain dogs/genders he reacts to?
Is he so angry exclusively on leash or also when free running?
Write down everything you can think of on the subject. Maybe you'll have an epiphany while you're reading through it, and with it a possible solution.
2. commands direct from the situation.
Reconditioning a leash-aggressive dog takes time and patience. Most importantly, consistency and education. Instead of tugging on the leash, think of something you want the dog to do. Sit down, lie down, turn in a circle, give paw. He should be happy to do the command and already be able to do it flawlessly.

From then on, any expression of aggression towards another dog will be immediately followed by your sharp "No!", followed by a nice request "Sit, down, circle, paw ..." There are dogs that offer the alternative on their own after only ten to twenty such exercises. Others need longer to properly link: a dog comes, I sit.

3. meet other dogs in a friendly way
Turning a dog's negative feelings around can be a good method. You need endless special treats and a key word such as "Look at this" or "Hmm, yummy". Then it's a matter of finding routes that give you plenty of escape routes, but where there are still dogs in the distance, such as near a dog run.

Now they go off until a dog appears quite far away, and in the same second, at your key word, put the treat in the dog's mouth. Then you move away. After a few such exercises you pass the other dog a few meters closer and work again with code word and morsel. The purpose: your dog registers the other dog, which is still too far away for his reaction, and involuntarily associates it with something positive. It may take a while until he understands that another dog in sight means a treat.

4. stay relaxed
If you've been nearly knocked down by your dog a few times because it threw itself into a harness or collar, you'll be nervous on walks and scan your surroundings for possible dog encounters. The dog adopts the human stress level 1:1, tenses up significantly and prepares for the next attack. A spiral that only you can interrupt:

Consciously focus on your target, not the surroundings.
Breathe calmly and evenly.
Think of something beautiful.
Smile.
You will be amazed at the effect.

5. create more important tasks
Distracting leash-aggressive dogs is exhausting, but it also leads to solving the problem for some dogs. While walking together, permanently draw your dog's attention. It works like this, for example:

Walk around trees in pairs
Let the dog look for treats within reach of the leash.
If the dog likes to fetch, have him pick up and carry something now before handing it to you.
Important: The dog enjoys your undivided attention and vice versa. Other dogs become unimportant; the world now revolves only around the two of you.

6. avoid serious problems
If two males or two females are personally spider enemies, so your dog reacts aggressively only to this one arch-enemy, all exercises will not help. This is a special case. It is best to coordinate with the owner of the other dog and get out of the way if possible.

7. ask for support from the behavior trainer
Special training has many advantages. In a fenced area, dog encounters are never random, but provoked. Specialty trainers always have a peaceful dog with strong nerves who responds to on-leash aggression with equanimity. And they observe and treat not only the dog, but you as well. Before you are at the end of your nerves, special training under experienced eyes is well worth considering.

The right harness for leash aggressive dogs

The behavior of a leash aggressive dog will not change overnight. Even if you try to consistently stay out of the way of other dogs, another dog may suddenly appear. In addition to consistent behavior training, the right equipment can also help them maintain better control during encounters with other dogs.

Collar or harness for the dog?

Experts recommend a well-fitting chest harness for leash-aggressive dogs. If the dog jumps into the collar with all his strength when he spies a fellow dog, it can be harmful to his health. He feels pain and shortness of breath at that moment, but links it not to his own reaction, but to the appearance of the other dog. In addition, the dog is set up with pull on the collar forward upwards, which is additionally threatening for the oncoming dog.

The right leash

The leash for leash aggressive dogs should meet the following requirements:

It should be sturdy.
It should fit well in the hand.
It should be of a comfortable length.
The dog should be given enough space to sniff in a relaxed manner, but the leash should not be so long that he can immediately run away from a sudden encounter with another dog and pull the handler off his feet with his run. A flexi leash is unsuitable for leash-aggressive dogs, as it cannot be established quickly enough in dicey situations.

Does a leash-aggressive dog have to wear a muzzle?

For leash-aggressive dogs that like to pounce on fellow dogs, a muzzle can provide security. This way, the handler can be sure that his dog cannot hurt another dog, even if the leash would slip. Often it is enough that the dog handler is much more relaxed as a result and transfers this positive mood to the dog. However, before the dog is to set off on a walk with a muzzle, he must be slowly accustomed to wearing a well-fitting muzzle.

"How do I housebreak my dog?" - A question that new dog parents ask themselves very often. To avoid the little mishaps, you should pay attention to a few things and follow rules. Because for the puppy, becoming housebroken is one of his first big challenges and he needs a lot of help with that.

Getting a puppy housebroken is the first step of dog training that the new owners have to deal with. If you want to give the puppy a grace period, it's best not to. After all, the most important imprinting phase takes place between the 8th and 20th week of life. To support the little four-legged friend in this learning process, clear rules are needed - but also sufficient calm and patience. Punishment is taboo when it comes to housetraining!

In order for the puppy to become housetrained, you should not let him out of your sight in the first period and - if possible - observe every step closely. Over time, you will develop an eye for when your dog needs to do his business. Classic signs of this are sniffing, whining, or nervously spinning in circles. Once you observe this behavior in your puppy, however, it needs to happen very quickly. Therefore, you should set as a goal to get him outside even before his urge to relieve himself. Once he has relieved himself outside, it's praise, praise, praise - whether it's with extensive petting or a treat! In the beginning, one or the other mishap can still happen. However, it is important that you do not scold the puppy for his mistake. Carry him outside anyway. If he gets loose again, praise him again.

How often does a puppy need to go outside?

Besides the typical signs, there are certain times when the puppy should go outside: after sleeping, eating and drinking, and after extensive playing or romping. Regardless of this, you should train the dog to a regular rhythm so that no mishaps happen in the house: for example, puppies under three months usually need to go out every 1.5 - 2 hours, between the third and fourth month about every 3 hours and from the fifth or sixth month about every 4 hours. Keep in mind, however, that these are not hour-long walks. Quite the opposite - a puppy cannot yet walk long distances. This is more about getting him used to being loose in freedom.

How to housebreak the puppy at night

To quickly accustom the puppy to his new life and the associated rules - such as housetraining - a regular routine will help him. Ideally, he should always get his dinner at the same time and be allowed to go out for the last time. Then it's off to the night quarters. Here it can be helpful to let the puppy sleep in a travel box, from which he can not easily crawl out. Most dogs instinctively try not to soil their sleeping space. If you don't have a box on hand, a large, tall cardboard box that the dog's basket is placed in will also suffice. With these aids, the likelihood that the puppy will let you know when the bladder is pressing increases. As soon as this is the case, quickly get him out! Again, remember to praise despite a sleepy night's sleep.

How long does it take a puppy to become housebroken?

When the puppy is housebroken is completely different. Each dog has its own character and therefore a completely different learning behavior. A lot also depends on whether the human reacts to the dog's attempts to communicate. So, especially in the first weeks, it is also helpful in terms of housetraining that you devote a lot of time and attention to your puppy. Depending on how consistently you train with him, the time until the puppy is completely housebroken will shorten or lengthen. Usually, most dogs can then be reasonably reliable for a short while around four months of age. Up to the age of one year, however, something can go into the fur from time to time. This is not a big deal! As long as you deal with this happened misfortune properly.

But you should definitely remove the legacies in the house with a strong-smelling cleaner or water-vinegar mixture. This way, no scent traces will be left behind. After all, these can tempt the puppy to get loose again in the place.

Not every dog enjoys romping in the rain or snow and hours of walking in bad weather. He still wants to do something. Use the bad weather for home training that is fun and from which both benefit in the long term.

Bad weather is no reason for boredom, because dogs especially hate it. Dogs need meaningful activity that challenges both body and mind. If the weather is so bad that long, exciting walks can only become unpleasant for dog and owner, these 7 tips for exciting entertainment in the house or apartment can help against boredom.

1. show me - help with lost items.

Walk up and down the apartment and drop a glove, your wallet or any other object you hold a lot in sight of the dog. Your dog will immediately use his nose to check what is there. You confirm this with praise and a "sit" signal. Usually a few repetitions are enough and you can introduce the "show me" signal between losing your object and sitting down and touching the muzzle. This will teach your dog in no time to indicate found objects without grabbing and biting them.

2. pick it up - help carrying it

You can train the "Pick it up" signal as a continuation of the "Show me" exercise in point one, or separately. For this purpose, a wooden spoon or walking stick is convenient (if you have a target, use it), with which you first point to a toy of the dog. He will certainly take it, listen to your "Pick it up" and will be confirmed with praise and reward. If the "Pick it up" sits, let him pick up a handkerchief, some piece of clothing or other mouth-friendly item. Then it gets difficult, because the car or house key, a knife or another object made of metal or glass costs overcoming.

3. do it after me - the twin game

Instead of saying "paw", simply extend your arm towards the dog. Because he knows the exercise, he will put his paw in your hand and get praise. Does he get what you want when you extend your other hand? Then he is super smart. Then lie down and wait to see if he does the same. Thick praise. You don't need to speak while doing this, almost all dogs gradually understand that they are supposed to imitate what you are doing. However, until a dog opens a drawer with his snout or turns in a circle just like you, you need a lot of patience and time.

4. bark and hush - exercise for little chatterboxes

A super exercise with which you can stop too much barking later. To do this, first encourage the dog to bark. Stand in front of him with a treat in your hand. Sniff it. Eventually the dog will start barking to get it. Let him scold you two or three times, then put a finger in front of your mouth, whisper "shhhh" and, once he goes silent, dispense the treat. Repeat this a few times, giving the treat each time at the same time the barking stops in response to her "shush." Then put it to the test and try to stop him barking without cause. Reward thickly if it works. This is how dog training is fun!

5 Bravo, great, keep it up - for clicker fans

If you already clicker, you can teach your dog a chain of signals without interrupting the reward. Those who don't click yet can start doing so now. For beginners: One second after each click there is a reward, until the dog waits for the click. Only then follow simple exercises like "sit" - click - reward. As soon as a dog knows and appreciates the clicker, practice sit, down, sit in a row, click each execution, but only give a treat at the end.

6 Relax - Relaxing on command

This exercise is similar to yoga for us. Have the dog lie down and sit next to it. Gently stroke his back and murmur kindly to him. You feel when the dog's muscles give way, see when he blinks, and continue stroking. Continue until the dog is completely relaxed and lying still. You introduce the signal "Relax" only when he already lets the muscles relax at hand contact with you. Attention: Stop the exercise when you feel that the heartbeat increases again and the dog becomes restless.

7. raving is not allowed at all - basic rule

Half-strong and quite cheeky - that's how most dogs are during puberty. In this phase he likes to be stubborn, forgets previously learned commands and pushes his limits. Now you must remain consistent!  

Depending on the breed, puberty or sexual maturity begins at the age of six months or one year. With the bitch it is marked by the first heat, with the male dog the transitions are often fluent: He lifts his leg when he pees, becomes increasingly interested in bitches, and more often sees rivals in other males.

During puberty, chaos reigns in the brain

As obedient and docile as a dog was in puppyhood, in the period around the onset of sexual maturity, i.e. puberty, most four-legged friends put their owners' patience to the test. This is because the dog's brain resembles a construction site during this phase: New nerve cells are formed and connected. Existing brain structures are reviewed. Useless cells are radically eliminated and unused nerve connections are cut. Sometimes the right side of the brain does not know what the left side is doing.

Patience and consistency are now required

No wonder that in this chaos, important skills are also forgotten, at least temporarily. But don't worry - with a little patience and consistency on the part of the owner, even the wildest half-wit will usually remember what he learned in puppy class, and the most obnoxious four-legged lout can become a well-behaved dog again.

Beware of quirks!

However, unattractive quirks and behavioral problems can develop now: Anxiety problems, aggressive tendencies or obsessive-compulsive disorders often begin during puberty. The sooner an expert counteracts this development, the greater the chance that the dog's soul will be restored to health.

Young dogs test their limits

Puberty is also a difficult phase in terms of health. When romping around, a young dog knows neither caution nor reason, and most importantly, its physical limits. You must pay attention to these. Do not be deceived by the bundle of energy. At this stage, dogs are anything but indestructible! The skeleton is not yet mature and can be damaged by injury or constant overload.

More susceptible to diseases

The young dog's immune system is also not yet fully capable. Young animals therefore become ill more often and more severely after an infection than healthy adults.